Hmmmm…

As we all know, I’m both a massive Drinks Factory fan boy and a food nerd.

Untitled does a tasting menu on the first Sunday of each month.

Of course I gave it a go.

The lighting in Untitled is odd. It manages to be both light and dark at the same time. It also feels (and the photos show) like it’s almost designed to be great for instagramming. It’s also got very concrete walls, which means that noisy gets very noisy very quickly. Fine for a bar, but less good for dinner on a Sunday evening.

A welcome cocktail (the ‘Snow’ mentioned in my trip to the actual lab) and some very instagrammable (but not as good as their standard bags of nibbles) snacks later we got the ball rolling on the food and its paired drinks.

IMG_2995The chef at the bar has quite the pedigree, having notched up time in a fair few of the world’s best cutting edge restaurants, so I was pretty excited. The food felt a bit like a Spanish take on Japanese food. Sea bass sashimi/carpaccio with cherry and rose petals came first. It looked amazing, and it tasted great. I couldn’t really try the elements as I am rather inept at chopsticks. It was paired with a beer! A Saison made with Japanese hops called Sorachi Ace. If Chardonnay was a beer, this is the beer it would be.

IMG_2996Next came an oyster with kimchi and chicken broth. Not the nicest oyster I’ve ever had (but I had the benefit of growing up where some of the best oysters come from, so yeah), but I liked the way it was done and the five year old Sake it was served with was predictably nom.

Bowl of beans next. Great! I wish more swanky places would include more veg in their menus. Except it wasn’t as good as I was hoping. I was a bowl of edamame beans cooked in bone marrow. It was incredibly one dimensional. There was no depth at all. Looking back at the other courses from this point I began to realise the same of all of them. The techniques were great and the food was pretty good quality, but they were all one note dishes. It was however served with a Sicilian Red which was the nicest red I’ve had in a long time.

IMG_2998After a bit of a wait (and some free champagne because of the wait – it was good too!) the ‘main’ came. It was pork cheek in a milk sauce. It was perfectly cooked, and thanks to the amazing whatever the veg they served with it had more depth than the others but still lacked enough oomph. It was served with a really nice cider, which worked, but I guess I’d expect a little more cleverness than that.

Pudding was the least impressive. Each element was nice on its own, but they really didn’t work well together. This was saved by the final cocktail of the evening – a ‘Silk’ which was a sweetened and slightly thickened clear spirit which had such an amazing texture that I giggled.

They clearly really know their drinks. They clearly really know their techniques. The food was potentially very interesting but lacked the depth of good fine dining. The pairing weren’t amazing and didn’t lift either the food or drink that well. Given the pedigree of everyone involved, I was expecting more depth and more excitement. The bar snacks and barbecue we’d had their previously were all excellent which added to this immensely (note: The BBQ and snacks there are worth giving a go!).

That being said, for £40 (and another £20 for the booze), it was a significantly cheaper experience that most fine dining, particularly in London. With that in mind, I think I’d try again in a year or so’s time – especially if it’s still that price.

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